12 essential tips for a first visit to Morocco
How to navigate your first visit to Morocco
Here are a few things we learned during our first visit to Morocco plus lots of tips that we wish we’d known, and so we are sharing them with you!
We flew into and out of Marrakech and spent most of our time in the South of Morocco, so this information mainly applies to that area. And please forgive us if we’ve got anything wrong or you simply don't agree with us.
Upon arrival in Morocco
Buy a Moroccan sim card at the airport when you land
There are a number of stands for the key network providers (Maroc Telecom, Orange etc) after passport control. You can buy a sim such as 20GB for 20 euros, and they will install it for free so you’re immediately ready to go. This will save you loads of money in terms of roaming costs, and we found coverage (for Maroc Telecom) to be very good. But be aware that, like almost everywhere in Morocco, you have to pay for your sim in cash, so take some euros!
Get plenty of Moroccan dirhams as soon as you can
If you’ve already booked your transfer from the airport, you can wait until you get into Marrakech, but otherwise you’ll have to bite the bullet and get some dirhams at less favourable rates from the Bureau de Change at the airport (next to the sim cards stands)
Once you get into Marrakech, there are lots of ATMs on the main square: Jamaa el Fna. Those at the Post Office (yellow signs for La Poste) don't charge you a fee, while others charge around 3% (plus whatever your own bank charges). If you want to exchange hard cash (sterling is fine – no need to buy euros beforehand) then go to the exchange booth at Hotel Ali - also on Jamaa el Fna - near the Post Office and easily identified by the long queues!
Maroc Telecom SIM
Get plenty of Moroccan dirhams in small denominations
During your visit
Hardly anywhere in Morocco accepts credit cards
Even hotels will try to avoid you paying by card wherever possible because the banks charge them at least 3% (which the hotel will often pass onto you). Coming from the UK and what, post pandemic, is basically a cashless society, this came as quite a shock, and the act of handing over huge wads of cash was really quite painful. But had to be done.
Morocco is huge!
The distances you’ll travel (especially if going South) are likely to be much longer than you expect. In addition, if you’re travelling by car, the roads are generally narrow and slow, and what is described as a 5 hour journey is likely to take at least 7-8 hours once you’ve factored in lunch and coffee stops, traffic, roadworks, etc.
Moroccans have very different attitudes towards animal welfare than our own
This is not intended as a criticism (we were, after all, guests in their country and are in no position to judge) but we found it challenging and difficult to cope with. Almost all dogs are strays (because the Muslim faith forbids their ownership unless they are specifically needed eg to guard livestock or for hunting, and even then they are not allowed inside the house) and stray dogs are not treated well (being viewed as dirty).
Cats fare much better, and there are countless cats in Marrakech who are at least fed despite apparently often still having ‘no fixed abode’.
Mules and donkeys are used as load bearers and whilst sometimes they seem broken and defeated, others are bright-eyed and seem well cared for.
Animals such as goats and sheep are kept only for food and are often tethered if outside so that they don't stray in search of food (unless kept in a nomadic herd). You might see the occasional cow, but the drought and increased costs have made these more of a rarity now – and they will also be tethered if outside (on very short chains and unable to follow their natural instinct to graze).
All this is compounded by the drought that Morocco is currently experiencing which means that food for animals is expensive and therefore in very short supply.
There are also the monkeys and snakes used to attract tourists (and more especially their money) on Jamaa el Fna square in Marrakech. We found it utterly heart breaking to see a monkey dressed in a pink tutu on the end of a short chain.
Ironically, the best-kept animals we saw were the camels used for tourist rides in Merzouga, in the Sahara Desert. Ironically because there’s much debate (outside of Morocco) about whether tourists should ride them. There seems little evidence though that it harms them, and based on everything else we saw, it probably provides their owners with the money and motivation to keep them in good health.
Moroccan social norms/rules are different to our own
Almost all Moroccan people (99%) are Sunni-Muslim and devoutly follow the Quran. Please be aware that:
Homosexuality is illegal
Unmarried couples (even non-Moroccans) will often not be allowed to share a bedroom in hotels and riads. For Moroccans, sexual relations before marriage is punishable by law.
Couples should not exhibit any public displays of affection eg kissing, especially in rural areas
Men, and especially women, should have their shoulders and knees covered everywhere outside the main cities (and even in them to be on the safe side)
That said, female tourists are not expected to cover their heads and generally Moroccan people accept that non-Muslims dress differently to them. But one of the ‘pillars of Islam’ is modesty and, in our view, it is only right to respect this when in their country.
Find more information about Moroccan laws and customs here.
Drought effects on grazing are clear to see
Morocco is currently (2022) experiencing a drought
Rainfall and snowfall have been much lower than usual for the past three years, which is having a terrible effect on Morocco’s rivers and water supply. The river valleys sustain the rural population and are intensively cultivated by means of irrigation. People depend on their gardens (allotments) in these valleys not only for growing their own food but for food for their animals, plus they use the valleys to grow crops such as bamboo which they use as part of building their homes.
Please be mindful of this and keep your water usage to a minimum.
As Daoud, our tour guide, said: ‘we need the money that tourists bring, but we need water more’.
Try to avoid renting a car if you can
Driving conditions are often challenging (especially in the cities) and the long distances could detract from the enjoyment of the driver’s holiday. Roads through the Atlas Mountains are slow, narrow and winding (beware if you get travel sick) and there are police stops everywhere – they won’t hesitate to hand out an on the spot fine if you’re inadvertently speeding or committing some other offence. Plus, it will further delay you.
We had a private (Berber) driver/tour guide for a few days who added hugely to both our enjoyment and understanding of Morocco and its people, for a very reasonable cost. His 4WD Toyota was really comfortable and only a couple of years old – much better than any car we would have rented. What’s more, the police rarely stop cars with a tourism licence, so we sailed through all the roadblocks. Check out Pleindesert.com and ask for Daoud – we very highly recommend him (his spoken English is much better than his written!)
Alternatively, you can join group tours, or bus and rail transport links are also very good. If going by bus, only use CTM or Supratours – you can check times and book online.
In our Berber village in the High Atlas Mountains only 10% of households own a car – and almost all of them use it for work (not to get to work!) People instead travel locally by shared taxi – green minibuses that travel between the villages and towns, to no particular schedule. You just have to wait until one comes along. Locals then use the CTM or Supratours buses if they want to travel further afield, and tourists can do the same.
Check out Pleindesert.com and ask for Daoud
Try Moroccan mint tea
There is no recycling in Morocco (or at least not where we were)
Again, coming from an area of the UK where most things are recycled, this hit us hard. Especially given that you can’t drink the tap water and so have to buy all your water in plastic bottles.
The sale and consumption of alcohol is forbidden outside licenced bars and restaurants
Which are both few in number, and very expensive. But you can buy a full range of wine, beers and spirits in the ‘cave’ section of a few supermarkets in cities (eg Carrefour) – and at reasonable prices. And Moroccan wine is delicious!
And lastly
Be kind and polite
The key to everything in Morocco, especially in a city like Marrakech, is to approach everything and everyone with good humour – and to realise that the worst thing for a Moroccan is to ‘lose face’.
It is essential to decline anything you don’t want to do, if you want to have a good, relaxing time – so don’t let anyone twist your arm into doing/buying anything you’re not sure about or keen on.
But at the same time, you must always decline with very good humour, and with an excuse – you have already arranged to meet a friend, to Skype your family at your hotel, you are at the end of your holiday and have no money left – whatever. So long as you can assure the person that you’d love to do what they propose, but maybe next time you visit?
Be warm and courteous – don't be THAT foreigner!
Marrakesh Menara Airport
Upon departure
Make sure you leave plenty of time for the airport
The extensively renovated and expanded Menara Marrakech airport opened in 2016 and is absolutely stunning – the most beautiful airport we’ve ever been to.
However, the queues for Departures security and passport control are long (or at least they were when we went through) so make sure you leave enough time – it took us a good hour of queuing.
Plan your return trip
You’ll probably feel sad when leaving and most people immediately plan to return to further explore Morocco. We loved it, because:
Morocco is stunningly beautiful
We always felt safe
Moroccan people (especially outside the cities) are friendly and welcoming, especially if you smile and greet them with a friendly ‘Bonjour!’ or ‘Salaam Aleikum!’ (Berber for ‘Peace be with you’)
Moroccan history and culture are absolutely fascinating. Just seeing the words ‘souk’, ‘medina’, ‘kasbah’ conjures up evocative pictures which are certainly true in reality (if rather more gritty, but that, in our view, adds to their appeal)
Moroccan lifestyles (especially in rural areas) are so different to our own – it’s eye opening and a real adventure
Prices are low and you also feel that your money is really helping those in need
Moroccan shopping (outside the tourist traps) is fantastic – beautifully crafted pieces and products. Look for rugs (can be posted home for you or book at extra bag), cushion covers, argan oil products, rose products, fossils, herbs & spices etc
Check out the female-owned co-operatives providing much-needed income (and maybe a little independence) for mums, daughters and friends working together to create stunning crafts, rugs, argan oil products etc.
We’re already planning our next trip and hope you will too. Please let us know!