Easy nature hike along the Kolpa river, Bela Krajina, Slovenia
The Kolpa River, Slovenia
This was one of our best ever walks – we were out for over 5 hours and didn't see a soul. Instead we were fully immersed in nature: the moment we stepped out of the car the birdsong hit us – it was just incredible.
The Southernmost Slovenian Footpath
We parked at Dolenji Radenci and walked down to the river where we were immediately stunned by an immense volume and diversity of birdsong, which was constant throughout the walk. Just some of the birds we saw or heard (in addition to the usual chaffinches, blackbirds and robins) were:
Grey Heron
Blackcap
Song Thrush
Kingfisher
Goldcrest
Marsh Tit
Blue Tit
Grey Wagtail
Goosander
Wren
Cuckoo
Green Sandpiper
Golden Oriole
The river itself is beautiful; a deep green colour, with lots of fish swimming in its crystal-clear water, and countless dragonflies, damselflies and other insects. The fact that it’s slow flowing means it’s much warmer than other Slovenian rivers and apparently is positively toasty in the summer. It was ‘refreshing’ at the beginning of June! It’s a mecca for fishermen, with 39 species of fish having been recorded, including Grayling, Hutchen and red-spotted Brown Trout, and has been described as ‘nothing short of a prehistoric, unspoilt river which is very accessible but wild and remote at the same time’. Fishing licences and more information can be obtained from info@rdcrnomelj.si
Goosander on the Kolpa River, Slovenia
Demoiselle (Calopteryx virgo) – common in Slovenia
Walking through ancient temperate rain forest
The entrance to the Kobiljaca karst cave
The walking path is flat and easy, every so often passing through lovely meadows and by several sites of cultural and historical interest such as:
THE SPRING TRPOTEC (which is known as the source of eternal youth, although we drank from it and are as old as ever)
BREG – the last functioning mill on the Kolpa river (although there were no signs of activity when we were there)
KOBILJACA – the longest karst cave in Bela Krajina
Mostly though you’re walking through an ancient temperate rainforest with a definite ‘jungle’ feel – a huge variety of different trees festooned by creepers, mosses and ferns, and even some patches of virgin forest. The park is home to Illyiran plants (plants that grow in the area of the former Roman province of Illyricum), sub-Mediterranean plants, Alpine plants and wetland plants. Various species of wild orchids grow in the meadows.
The whole walk was an absolute delight and felt rather like how we’d imagine the Amazon must feel – but a lot safer, cheaper and closer!
Apparently, there are bears, lynx and wolves in the area but we saw no signs whatsoever of them and it seems rather unlikely given that you’re not actually far from civilisation, even though it does feel like true wilderness.
Our destination was the lovely village of Damelj, which must be one of the prettiest spots in Slovenia. The first time we visited was at the weekend and there were some families there, but we went back on a weekday because we loved it so much and were the only people there. It was perfectly idyllic.
There is a traditional organised hike along this path every year on the first Sunday after 1 May, when you can enjoy the hospitality of local people and their culinary specialities. Slovene people are typically immensely friendly and welcoming, and Bela Krajina is famed for its local delicacies, so we’d recommend it if you get a chance.
Breg – the last functioning mill on the Kolpa river
The Kolpa River, Slovenia – walking through an ancient temperate rainforest with a definite ‘jungle’ feel.
The Southernmost Slovenian Footpath - section walked
Duration: Approx 5 hours return
Length: 10.5km
Difficulty: Easy
Height difference: Negligible
Tips/helpful info
1 – Hiking boots are recommended for this walk but it’s not technically difficult and in our view trainers or walking sandals would be fine unless it’s wet.
2 – It’s impossible to get lost as you just follow the path along the river, but we recommend still taking a proper walking map and also using Mapps.me to plot your route. Phone signal is poor so you can’t rely on online maps.
3 – There’s nowhere to get lunch so take a picnic and plenty of water.
4 – We stayed during our trip to Bela Krajina at a beautiful holiday cottage in Cudno Selo – just outside Crnomelj. We found it on a new accommodation website we’d not used before: Nature House. It’s based in the Netherlands and, as you’d expect, focuses on cottages, cabins etc in the middle of nature and away from the crowds – perfect for us! The search and booking process was easy and the cottage was lovely – an old log cabin built in 1800. The bathroom was outside and it was definitely ‘back to basics’ but we loved it and it really contributed to our whole ‘immersed in nature’ experience in Bela Krajina. There were endangered turtle doves in the area with their lovely ‘purring’ song, and I even saw one outside the cottage. Amazing! Nature house in Crnomelj
Details
What is it? The region of Bela Krajina (or White Carniola) is the extreme south eastern part of Slovenia. The Kolpa river creates the southern border between Slovenia and Croatia and is a regional nature reserve. It is said to have traditionally united rather than divided the two countries, and that certainly seemed to be the case most of the way we walked along it.
Where is it? The largest town in Bela Krajina is Crnomelj, which is about an hour south of Ljubljana.
What does it offer? Bela Krajina is wonderfully unspoilt and offers a winning combination of natural beauty, wilderness, wildlife, vineyards (and consequently great wines), fantastic food and regional delicacies, and various cultural and historical attractions.
The stretch of the Kolpa river that is the subject of this blog is slow moving and flows through steep, impenetrable banks of protected and ancient natural deciduous forest. The Kolpa is one of Natura 2000 sites of international importance.
Who would love it? Bela Krajina is an absolute ‘go to’ destination for all birdwatchers, fishermen and nature lovers.